Oaxaca, en un internet cafe... evening, warm
I am currently living with my host family, and I could not have asked for anything more from them. They host many American students, and our Señora Ceci who is perhaps sixty, spent practically her entire life up to this point working for the tourism board and the government, and so she knows EVERYTHING there is to know about the city- every day she gives us something new to check out on our daily walks, which I try to take every morning to get both a better sense of direction and also a feel for the city. Señor Adolfo is also very kind- what they call in Spanish a bromista, or joker, and he always has me smiling, explaining patiently to me the meaning of different expressions and sayings and definitely keeping me on my toes. Both also periodically correct my grammar and offer answers to my myriad of questions about both language and culture. Also it is interesting to note that in the current elections (which are very exciting) they voted different ways, and their three children (all in their late 20s early 30s) also each have different party affiliations.
The teacher protests are actually very interesting, and when I get a chance I will send some pictures of what is going on. Currently their encampment is almost empty because they all went to their pueblos to vote on Sunday. The city downtown is mostly affected in the wealthiest parts where tourists have canceled their reservations, but you can walk wherever you want pretty much and not be harassed, although many streets are currently closed to car traffic because they have closed off the street. There is a lot of graffiti and trash left over, but people are already trying to clean things up. The grossest thing is perhaps that one or two street corners smell like urine because the toilets were taken away.Many citizens in the city (including my host family) are not in support of what the teachers have done because they have made somewhat of a mess of the downtown area, what with the graffiti and papier mache figurines of Ulyses (the current governor, who they want usurped) labeled "asesino" (assassin, as you might guess). Last night there were actually tons of parades around the city with members of the PRD, who claimed to have won the presidential election, but as it is the margin of error is greater than the margin of difference so no one will actually know who won until at least Wednesday.
My Spanish is already improving immensely. Some of my favorite new words have been tufa, the aftertaste associated with good mescal (which is delicious and smoky the way you would taste the smoky aftertaste of a good cheese), guera (not actually a favorite, though very important to know because it describes all fair-haired and fair-skinned people and is not actually negative, though it is somewhat annoying to be called one, because you just sit there and think, duh, I´m a guera, what do you want me to do about it?), tlayuda the name for their huge tortillas, which are delicious. I have also learned from my coordinator as well as some other kind souls that familiar words like chorizo, torta, and juevos as well as the word gustar (which normally simply means to like something) can actually mean inappropriate things when said in the wrong context.
My Spanish classes are interesting, particularly the one teacher who speaks quickly and with somewhat of an accent so it is good practice to try to understand her. The other teacher, whose language is a bit easier to understand, is kind of boring, and we went over some grammar today that was rather basic and boring, but I put in a request to learn more colloquialisms and slang so we don´t sound quite as goofy when we talk to people in stores and such, so that will be more interesting.
The city is fabulous. I can´t even begin to describe how amazing it is. The mornings are mild, easily my favorite part of the day, and with light clothing, the heat in the afternoon is quite pleasant too. It is also definitely a walking city, with blocks and blocks of small shops selling mangos (two for just 46 cents here!), limes (three for 10 cents), and other delicious goodies. The architecture is likewise amazing: most of the buildings have very flat fronts (no facades like in the US) and are painted in all kinds of bright and beautiful colors, which don´t look at all out of place when you put them all together. When you look inside the doorways of each building, however, inside are courtyards with beautiful flowers and plants, bicycle shops, cafes, and clothing stores. Also there are tens of cathedrals, old convents, and churches, which are just a mindblow. Everything has cuppolas (sp?) on top, in the Spanish and Italian style of Filippo Brunelleschi, and look to be a million years old. The parks are likewise interesting and beautiful, and in many places they are remodeling despite people´s grumbling that the governor spends too much money on such projects.
It´s easy to get tired because of the elevation, though, as we are relatively high up in the mountains, and I have not quite adjusted to it yet: the main meal of the day, comida, is served quite late and I am almost always ready for a nap afterwards, particularly after having walked all morning. I have been lucky enough, too, to taste some different kinds of food, and am already further intrigued by Mexico´s mole sauces, which I want to learn how to make. Señora Ceci is quite kind, and seems to have a personal goal of fattening me up because I seem to eat everything she puts in front of me, for curiosity if not for hunger, while some of the other girls in the house do not. I have enjoyed several cheeses from both Chiapas and Oaxaca, as well as meatballs, tamales, a chocolate drink with a maseca (corn-water) base, frijoles and tortillas (of course), delicous soups, and gelatin or jello, which they apparently serve all the time here. Thus far I have avoided street food, not because it looks unappetizing (the aromas are incredible) but because I want to be sure my stomach has built up a tolerance to bacteria from the water (which is brown- everyone buys it in bottles) in small doses before I get too adventurous. I am also excited to try chapulines, or fried grasshoppers, which look strange but if you eat them, apparently you will return to Oaxaca some day after you leave.
Anyways, I am definitely having fun and learning a lot- my adrenaline is constantly going from the thrill of just being here and being able to talk to people and ask questions of whomever I want, and I almost feel as though I should be taking notes when I talk to people- everyone is so friendly and knowledgeable and I feel totally safe, even with the protests. My house is also central to pretty much everything, or at least with a little walking, which I do not mind. I am anxious to begin working, but of course training (which will be totally boring, I already know) has to come first. Soon, too, I will be able to show Tim all of this- I am so excited to be able to show him around, and I know he is already excited.
The teacher protests are actually very interesting, and when I get a chance I will send some pictures of what is going on. Currently their encampment is almost empty because they all went to their pueblos to vote on Sunday. The city downtown is mostly affected in the wealthiest parts where tourists have canceled their reservations, but you can walk wherever you want pretty much and not be harassed, although many streets are currently closed to car traffic because they have closed off the street. There is a lot of graffiti and trash left over, but people are already trying to clean things up. The grossest thing is perhaps that one or two street corners smell like urine because the toilets were taken away.Many citizens in the city (including my host family) are not in support of what the teachers have done because they have made somewhat of a mess of the downtown area, what with the graffiti and papier mache figurines of Ulyses (the current governor, who they want usurped) labeled "asesino" (assassin, as you might guess). Last night there were actually tons of parades around the city with members of the PRD, who claimed to have won the presidential election, but as it is the margin of error is greater than the margin of difference so no one will actually know who won until at least Wednesday.
My Spanish is already improving immensely. Some of my favorite new words have been tufa, the aftertaste associated with good mescal (which is delicious and smoky the way you would taste the smoky aftertaste of a good cheese), guera (not actually a favorite, though very important to know because it describes all fair-haired and fair-skinned people and is not actually negative, though it is somewhat annoying to be called one, because you just sit there and think, duh, I´m a guera, what do you want me to do about it?), tlayuda the name for their huge tortillas, which are delicious. I have also learned from my coordinator as well as some other kind souls that familiar words like chorizo, torta, and juevos as well as the word gustar (which normally simply means to like something) can actually mean inappropriate things when said in the wrong context.
My Spanish classes are interesting, particularly the one teacher who speaks quickly and with somewhat of an accent so it is good practice to try to understand her. The other teacher, whose language is a bit easier to understand, is kind of boring, and we went over some grammar today that was rather basic and boring, but I put in a request to learn more colloquialisms and slang so we don´t sound quite as goofy when we talk to people in stores and such, so that will be more interesting.
The city is fabulous. I can´t even begin to describe how amazing it is. The mornings are mild, easily my favorite part of the day, and with light clothing, the heat in the afternoon is quite pleasant too. It is also definitely a walking city, with blocks and blocks of small shops selling mangos (two for just 46 cents here!), limes (three for 10 cents), and other delicious goodies. The architecture is likewise amazing: most of the buildings have very flat fronts (no facades like in the US) and are painted in all kinds of bright and beautiful colors, which don´t look at all out of place when you put them all together. When you look inside the doorways of each building, however, inside are courtyards with beautiful flowers and plants, bicycle shops, cafes, and clothing stores. Also there are tens of cathedrals, old convents, and churches, which are just a mindblow. Everything has cuppolas (sp?) on top, in the Spanish and Italian style of Filippo Brunelleschi, and look to be a million years old. The parks are likewise interesting and beautiful, and in many places they are remodeling despite people´s grumbling that the governor spends too much money on such projects.
It´s easy to get tired because of the elevation, though, as we are relatively high up in the mountains, and I have not quite adjusted to it yet: the main meal of the day, comida, is served quite late and I am almost always ready for a nap afterwards, particularly after having walked all morning. I have been lucky enough, too, to taste some different kinds of food, and am already further intrigued by Mexico´s mole sauces, which I want to learn how to make. Señora Ceci is quite kind, and seems to have a personal goal of fattening me up because I seem to eat everything she puts in front of me, for curiosity if not for hunger, while some of the other girls in the house do not. I have enjoyed several cheeses from both Chiapas and Oaxaca, as well as meatballs, tamales, a chocolate drink with a maseca (corn-water) base, frijoles and tortillas (of course), delicous soups, and gelatin or jello, which they apparently serve all the time here. Thus far I have avoided street food, not because it looks unappetizing (the aromas are incredible) but because I want to be sure my stomach has built up a tolerance to bacteria from the water (which is brown- everyone buys it in bottles) in small doses before I get too adventurous. I am also excited to try chapulines, or fried grasshoppers, which look strange but if you eat them, apparently you will return to Oaxaca some day after you leave.
Anyways, I am definitely having fun and learning a lot- my adrenaline is constantly going from the thrill of just being here and being able to talk to people and ask questions of whomever I want, and I almost feel as though I should be taking notes when I talk to people- everyone is so friendly and knowledgeable and I feel totally safe, even with the protests. My house is also central to pretty much everything, or at least with a little walking, which I do not mind. I am anxious to begin working, but of course training (which will be totally boring, I already know) has to come first. Soon, too, I will be able to show Tim all of this- I am so excited to be able to show him around, and I know he is already excited.
posted by ajolley | 6:23 PM
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